Local, Near and Far: Our journey of exploring the world.

Tag: Europe

Pension U Zámku

Rebekah and I absolutely loved our stay at Pension U Zámku! Our amazing experience started immediately upon arrival at the Český Krumlov train station.

Courtyard Under the Tower

Courtyard Under the Tower

When finalizing our reservation over email, the pension owner Petr offered to pick us up at the train station. We gladly accepted! Rebekah and I were greeted with big smiles by Petr and his little daughter. This warm welcome made us immediately feel at home in the small Czech town, like extended family returning from a long absence. This kindness saved us a 20 minute walk or the cost of a taxi.

Location: Pension U Zámku is situated DIRECTLY under the Round Tower. With only one day in this quaint location, we paid only slightly more to stay in the heart of the town. This prime location provides quick access to all of Český Krumlov,  both the Old Town and Castle Town. The entrance to Český Krumlov Castle is only one minute away. Continue reading

Czech Beer

Every Friday we take a break from our regular blogging schedule to allow the authors an opportunity to feature a certain topic they are passionate about. In the past you’ve read about art, studying abroad, and experiencing culture through food. Through this and other future posts we hope you’ll enjoy reading, we hope to share with you our personalities, passions, and interests on a more personal level.

Have you ever taken a pay cut to stay close to your local brewery?

After the fall of the Iron Curtain in 1989, national borders opened and opportunities for better jobs and higher pay enticed many Eastern European residents to leave their homelands and move west.  However many Czechs, motivated by their love of local brews, decided not to relocate for these new opportunities.  Now that is devotion!

Before journeying to the Czech Republic, I found an article ranking the Czech Republic as drinking the most beer per capita of any country.  On average, every Czech resident consumes 156.9 liters of beer per year.  For comparisons, the Czech Republic leads second place Ireland by almost 26 liters.  That is some serious drinking!

Most of the pubs Rebekah and I encountered during our time in the Czech Republic only served one brand of beer.  Canopies and large patio umbrellas proudly proclaimed which beer their restaurant served.  Some bars only served the flagship beer of the brewery, while other pubs offered up to three beers from their sponsored brewery.  The beer was almost always served in the brewery’s pint glass.

Pilsner Urquell at the Golden Tiger Pub

Pilsner Urquell at the Golden Tiger Pub

In general, the most popular beer is Pilsner Urquell, with Staropramen coming in second place.

Rebekah and I accidentally enjoyed a double round of Pilsner Urquell at a great local bar, The Golden Tiger Pub.  At the Prague Airport, our last beer in the Czech Republic was Pilsner Urquell’s black lager, Kozel Černý.

Staropramen Taps at Hotel Hastal's Pub

Staropramen Taps at Hotel Hastal’s Pub

Even our hotel had a bar, noted for some of the cheapest pints of beer in Prague.  Unfortunately, we did not get a chance to partake in their three Staropramen taps.  However, we did enjoy a Staropramen Černý (Dark) at a delicious pizzeria in the Old Town Square.

If you venture outside of Prague to the surrounding country, you will find a variety of regional beers.  Even in Prague, you can find more options than the national brands.  For example, we enjoyed a delicious lager, Lobkowicz Knízeci Pivovar.  While normally found only in the lands once ruled by the Lobkowicz family, we enjoyed this tasty beer on draft at the Lobkowicz Palace Café at Prague Castle.  This was possibly my favorite beer in the Czech Republic!

Lobkowicz Knízeci Pivovar at the Lobkowicz Palace Café

Lobkowicz Knízeci Pivovar at the Lobkowicz Palace Café

Wanting to experience more of the Czech Republic, we ventured from Prague to the amazing town of Český Krumlov.  The local brewery, Eggenberg, produced a delicious Czech Pilsner Světlý Ležák.  For a change in style, we tried the dark Schwarzbier, Tmavy Lezák.  While dark in color, the black beer still tastes light and actually has less alcohol content than the pilsner.  This seems to be very common for dark beers in the Czech Republic.

With our time in the Czech Republic coming to a close, I wanted to try one more Czech beer before flying to Paris, land of wine.  On the train ride to Český Krumlov, we discovered that drinking on the train is socially acceptable.  With this in mind, I purchased a large bottle of beer from a local grocery store for only 13 Crowns, or $0.62.  It would have been even cheaper if I had been able to return the bottle for my deposit!

Budweiser Budvar Original

Budweiser Budvar Original

The beer I grabbed in my haste was Budweiser Budvar Original.  As in, the original Budweiser.  Brewed in the Czech town of České Budějovice, there have been endless trademark battles between the Czech brewery and the American beer giant, Anheuser-Busch.  To save you all the drama, Anheuser-Busch lost multiple cases in the European Union court system.  As a result, in most of Europe Anheuser-Busch’s Budweiser is marketed simply as Bud.  In most of North America, Budweiser Budvar Original is marketed as Czechvar.

Half way through our four hour trip, I popped the top of the room temperature beer.  After all the lawsuits, I realized that Anheuser-Busch perfectly copied the Czech version, as both tasted equally subpar to me.  What a waste!  This was the only disappointing beer I had in the Czech Republic.

Let me leave you with a few tips.  First, beer in Czech is pivo (pronounced PEE-voh).  Light beer is světlé pivo (SVYEHT-leh) and dark beer is tmavé pivo (TMAH-veh).  Also, you will notice degree signs associated with Czech beers, as seen in the above picture of the right Staropramen tap.  This symbol does not equal percent alcohol.  It is a measurement of densities of the beer’s ingredients.  In general, the low densities (10°) are pilsners with about 3.5% ABV, and higher densities (11° to 15°) are darker beers with higher alcohol contents.  For example, a 12° beer is about 4.2% ABV.

By the end of writing this article, I am reminded how much I wish to return to the Czech Republic and sample more Czech beers!  This part of the local culture was such a great part of our trip.

The Slav Epic

Alfons Mucha’s Slav Epic was the highlight of our trip to Prague!

You may not have heard of Alfons Mucha before, but if you spend time in the Czech Republic, you will see his work and influence all around you! Mucha’s style became the foundation for Art Nouveau. Even without prior knowledge of Mucha, the Slav Epic is a must see cultural gem!

The Massive Paintings

The Massive Paintings

On 20 canvases, Alfons Mucha portrays the history and mythology of the Slavic people, spanning 1,500 years. Mucha devoted 18 years to completing the series. These nationalistic pieces of art helped unify the Slavic people, ultimately gaining their own country after World War I.

Exterior of the Veletrzni Palace

Exterior of the Veletrzni Palace

The Location: The enormous canvasses, some as large as 25 feet by 20 feet, are well-displayed in the Veletržní Palace. Located just outside the main touristic district, we caught a tram (Line 12, 14, 15 or 17), which dropped us at the museum entrance.

Viewing the Art: Today, viewing this collection provides a great overview for a modern visitor to Prague. Each piece chronologically portrays a scene from history or cultural folklore. The paintings will introduce you to the major political figures, which you will see celebrated throughout the Czech Republic. For example, find Jan Hus in the artwork. Hus tried to reform the Catholic Church more than 100 years before Martin Luther, but was burned at the stake for heresy. You will also find his statue in the center of the Old Town Square, and in Mucha’s stained glass window in St. Vitus Cathedral. Learning these historical figures will add depth and understanding to your visit as you find them at attractions across Prague and the Czech Republic.

Detail of the Apotheosis of the Slavs

Detail of the Apotheosis of the Slavs

When viewing the paintings, consider that colors are symbolic: white for peace, red for war, blue for the past and orange for the future. In addition, Mucha highlights the focal points in each work with extra detail applied with oil paint, making these figures pop out of the canvas.

The Cost: The Veletržní Palace has other great artwork as well, but with limited time, Rebekah and I only visited the Slav Epic exhibit. Based on the collections you wish to see, there are multiple choices when buying tickets at the front desk. Admission for the Slav Epic exhibition only is 180 CZK (about $9.00 at the time). Once inside the exhibit, there is a desk where you can purchase the English informational pamphlet for 10 CZK ($0.50). You SHOULD definitely do this! The descriptions of each piece bring the paintings to life with the background required to properly enjoy the works. Allow two hours to view the Slav Epic and read the descriptions.

The Gallery

The Gallery

Other Noteworthy Items:  If you find yourself in love with Mucha’s style after visiting the Slav Epic, there are two additional attractions in Prague where you can view more of his work.  As mentioned above, Mucha created a stained glass window in St. Vitus Catherdral, located within Prague Castle.  The window is simply stunning; a must see.  The second option, which we did not have time to visit, is the Alfons Mucha Museum in the New Town.

UPDATE:  The Slav Epic is currently closed.  Please check this link to verify that the Gallery has reopened prior to visiting.  The expected reopening is August 1, 2015.

Hotel Hastal Prague Old Town

When Rebekah and I travel, we look for a cheap but comfortable hotel near the town’s center. We do not like to pay a lot of money for a really nice hotel room, especially when we want to leave that room as much as possible to experience the culture surrounding us. To make the most of our time in Prague, we also valued staying in the heart of the city, with convenient access to our points of interest. Hotel Hastal Prague Old Town was the perfect fit!

View of the Square from our Room

View of the Square from our Room

Location: Hotel Hastal is located just outside the Jewish Quarter in Prague’s Old Town. The great location makes it easy to access all of Prague’s sights, especially if you take advantage of the subway and above-ground tram system. A tram stop is a short five minute walk east of the hotel. If you walk five minutes to the west, you will be standing in the Old Town Square, featuring the Tyn Church and the Old Town Hall Tower with its popular Astronomical Clock.

Our Double Room

Our Double Room

The Bathroom

The Bathroom

The Room: The hotel is not fancy, but is very comfortable and clean with a family-run feeling. Art Nouveau prints by Czech artist Alfons Mucha decorate the hallways and rooms. Our room provided plenty of space along with a double bed, desk, chair and closet. The room also included a small TV and a safe. The bathroom was spacious with a corner shower. The large double window overlooked a mostly quiet small square and church.

The Breakfast: A delicious breakfast of hot and cold food is included with the room. The buffet features eggs, sausage, meats, cheeses, breads, yogurts, cereals, and jams. Each day, a different coffee cake is served as well. The options do not rotate much from day to day, so plan accordingly for a long visit. As an added bonus, a coffee machine and tea are available 24 hours a day. This was a great perk, and added to the overall value of our room! We caffeinated up one afternoon before taking to the streets again for a concert at the Municipal House.

The Cost: Our double room cost us only 80 Euros (about $110 at the time) per night. We found the cheapest rate by emailing the hotel and booking directly with them. A credit card number was required to hold the room, but only cash (USD, Euros, or Crowns) was accepted at checkout. Since we knew ahead of time that Hotel Hastal would accept US Dollars, we avoided an ATM/exchange fees by bringing the required USD with us from home. Overall, the payment process was very easy.

Other Noteworthy Items: The staff was incredibly helpful and kind.  They even arranged a private car to pick us up at the airport since we were arriving at midnight and were not familiar with the city and public transportation. The transportation cost (29 Euros) was added to our hotel tab.  This was great because we had not figured out currency yet.  A bar serving Staropramen beer, a Czech beer staple, shares the breakfast room. Although the hotel bar sells some of Prague’s least expensive brews, we were not able to partake due to relatively early closing times.

View of the Church from our Room

View of the Church from our Room

Without a doubt, if we travel to Prague again, we would stay at Hotel Hastal.

As avid fans of Rick Steves, we bought his 2014 Prague & the Czech Republic Guidebook, where we first found information on this gem of a hotel.

A Case Study in Redeeming Frequent Flyer Miles

Today, we kick off a series about Rebekah and my most recent international trip.  But before we dive into the stories from the trip, we wanted to take a minute to break down redeeming frequent flyer miles.

Our trip, like any good trip, started with the classic question:  “Where should we go?”  Rebekah and I had accumulated 120,000 miles in our American Airlines frequent flyer accounts, and the miles were burning a hole in our pockets.  Where should we go?

London - Picadilly Circus

London – Picadilly Circus

Redeeming American Airlines’ Frequent Flyer Miles:  Since we were redeeming miles, we figured a good place to start was the American Airlines website.  The Awards Map, a relatively new feature, helps find possible destinations based on the number of frequent flyer miles you wish to redeem.  Using this option, the website shows possible destinations in a selected area (such as Asia Pacific, Europe, Central and South America, etc.) originating from a specific airport, ours being DFW (Dallas-Fort Worth) Airport.  We set the miles we were willing to spend to 30,000 miles per person (one-way).  Based on the dates of travel, we realized we did not have enough miles for Asia or Africa and few options for South America.  Europe seemed to be the best fit.  By eliminating the countries we had already visited in Europe, we only had 45 countries to choose from.  Ha.  Still daunting.

When booking flights using miles, we were shocked to find the additional taxes and fees to be extraordinary.  Some options, such as a flight to Gibraltar, cost 30,000 miles and $760 per person one way.  We quickly ruled out these locations.  In general, we found flights connecting through London Heathrow were more expensive than connecting through other airports.  Also, direct flights were normally the cheapest, since less airports equals less fees.

One benefit of using frequent flyer miles is that you can easily book one-way tickets for half of the miles of a round trip ticket (based on the dates).  We quickly realized there was no benefit for us to book a round trip ticket, and started to view each way as an independent option.  However, the Award Map became even more difficult to use for a one-way return ticket, as you have to select one city in Europe at a time, and select continental US as the return.  Once you do this, you can see if DFW airport is available from the selected European city.  The American Airlines Award Map can be a frustrating tool because of its limitations, but after a lot of work, it helped us narrow down our final destinations.

After much searching, we decided to fly home from Paris, mostly because it was a direct flight back to DFW with ideal departure and landing times and minimal taxes.  After even more struggles, we found a great flight to Prague.  We wanted to explore Eastern Europe if possible, and this was as far east as we could fly on 30,000 miles.

Prague - View of the Charles Bridge

Prague – View of the Charles Bridge

Modifying a Frequent Flyer Ticket Itinerary:  Later, we discovered another benefit of using miles:  no change fees.  After looking at our work schedules again, we were able to extend our trip by two days.  I was not sure what fees would be associated with such a change, but thought the extra time in Europe would be worth a try.  I was pleasantly surprised to find there was no fee.  As long as a flight for the same number of miles is available, the only cost would be the difference in taxes.  In our case, we only changed the return flight, knowing we would not find another flight to Prague.  We easily found a new return flight from Paris, and the taxes for the later flight was the same as the previous flight.  There was no cost to modify our itinerary.

Overall, the representatives at American Airlines were very helpful.  However, if they book the tickets for you directly, there is a fee, so avoid the extra fee by letting them help you make an online booking.  Once you have an online booking, they can assist you with any changes.

When all the planning was complete, we booked a 1 stop flight from DFW to Prague, with a layover in London Heathrow (a rare exception to the high taxes).  The cost for each person was 30,000 miles and $96.80.  The return flight was direct from Charles de Gaulle Airport to DFW for 30,000 miles and $90.90 each.  For those keeping score at home, our “free” tickets cost us a total of 120,000 miles and $375.40.  When it comes to airlines, “free” is not always free.  This definitely made us rethink the value of frequent flyer mile programs.

Our Itinerary:  After a lot of work, Rebekah and I were going to Europe.  We would visit the following locations:

Paris - View of the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triomphe

Paris – View of the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triomphe

In the coming weeks, we will break down each of these four destinations, sharing highlights and the most memorable experiences from each location.  We look forward to sharing our experiences with you!

If you have successfully booked a flight with frequent flyer miles and have any tips, feel free to share in the comments section!