With time running short during our two-day visit to Prague, there was one mandatory site Rebekah and I had not yet explored, Prague Castle. All over town, we caught glimpses of the Castle looming in the distance. On our second day, we devoted most of our afternoon to exploring this area.
Prague Castle, a collection of courtyards, churches, and royal palaces has been a seat of power for hundreds of years. Even today, the Castle houses the Czech government, with the presidential residence still located within the historic complex.
We caught Tram 22 near the Charles Bridge and enjoyed the scenic ride through the Little Quarter as the tram made the steep ascent to the Castle. We hopped off the tram and crossed a bridge spanning the moat, now overgrown with trees. Passing between two Czech soldiers at the gate, we entered Prague Castle.
Prague Castle Grounds
Once inside, we ducked into a one of three ticket offices, and bought our passes. While you can take a free stroll inside the complex and view the exterior of the buildings, you need a ticket to enter them. There are a few ticket options, but thanks to Rick Steves, we knew we wanted the short-tour ticket, which gave us access to Saint Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, Saint George’s Basilica and the quaint Golden Lane for 250 Crowns ($12 at the time) per person. Now, we were ready to see the sights!
We entered a large, beautiful courtyard that was undergoing restoration, and followed the crowds through a large archway. We were suddenly greeted by the sheer magnitude of Saint Vitus Cathedral! It is giant! The Cathedral is so large, and in such a tight space, I could not stand far enough back to take it all in. The giant scale made taking a good photo of the front (west) façade challenging! In order to properly do justice to Saint Vitus Cathedral, Rebekah will take a more detailed look at this national and religious landmark in the next post.
The Old Royal Palace
After Saint Vitus Cathedral, we visited the Old Royal Palace, with its splendid ball room spread out before us. Except in the main room, employees dutifully reminded the crowds that only “licensed” photographers were allowed to take pictures. This took away from the overall joy of the experience. If you pay a relatively small fee, you too can become “licensed.” However, if you take the time to explore some of the upper rooms, you will end up on a balcony with sweeping views of the other three districts of Prague!
St. George’s Basilica
Next stop, Saint George’s Basilica. The Basilica’s Romanesque design sharply contrasts the Gothic and Neo-Gothic styles of Saint Vitus, towering only feet away from the much older Basilica. The painted exterior is wonderful! Inside, the church is intimate, yet hollow. Sound vibrates off the thick stone walls. A surprising amount of light found its way into the structure from a few small windows high in the walls.
Finally yielding to our hunger, we ate a very late lunch/early dinner at the Lobkowicz Palace Café. Perched above the Little Quarter on the balcony, we enjoyed delicious food while taking in the scenic view of the city! I loved my Czech Goulash with dumplings; definitely my best meal in the Czech Republic! Rebekah opted for a roast beef sandwich that was almost as good. We tried the Lobkowicz’s family brew, Lobkowicz Knízeci Pivovar. The beer was light yet extremely tasty, but a little pricey by Czech standards. The bill for two meals and a pint was 600 Crowns, less than $30. Not bad for a nice meal with a splendid view! The café also accepts credit cards. We did not pay the entrance fee to visit the rest of the palace, but hear it is the best palace in Prague.
Czeck Goulash with Dumplings at the Lobkowicz Palace Café
Strolling the Golden Lane
The last attraction, the Golden Lane, is a narrow street with very small houses. These cottages once housed castle servants. The Czech author Franz Kafka called #22 home. Now, these miniature structures hold shops, museums and a pub. We strolled the street after 5:00 PM, when a ticket was no longer required. Unfortunately, most of the shops and attractions were closed. However, the crowds also disappeared, allowing us to take in the charm of the cozy lane!
On the way to Strahov Monastery for a sunset view of Prague, we passed through the Castle Square, with its Plague Column and more palaces.
On the return journey, we walked through the Castle Quarter, down to the Little Quarter and crossed the Charles Bridge into the Old Town. This entire walk was wonderful, the Castle after sunset is magical! The throngs of tourists have moved to other venues, and we were left with a romantic backdrop for an evening stroll. Since it is the seat of government, the area is well-lit and patrolled, so it is very safe even though it is quiet. This downhill walk was an amazing recap of Prague’s many highlights!
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