When visiting Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia, it is likely you will encounter two national heroes: Plečnik and Prešeren. Jože Plečnik the architect, and France Prešeren the poet.
Today, we take a closer look at the architect, Jože Plečnik. While Plečnik is a household name in Slovenia, I feel like little is known of him in the United States, even among fellow architects.
Travel often unlocks new experiences that we did not even realize existed before traveling. In Prague, Rebekah and I fell in love with delightful Art Nouveau painter, Alfons Mucha when we experienced his Slav Epic masterpieces first-hand. We had a very similar experience in Ljubljana. The architectural influence of Jože Plečnik is a treat waiting to be unwrapped.
Jože Plečnik (1872 – 1957) began his career in Vienna, spent some time in Prague, and left his legacy on his hometown of Ljubljana, where he worked until his death.
The Triple Bridge with Prešeren Square
Before we arrived, we hoped to learn more about this influential Slovene figure by visiting Plečnik’s House. Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, this great attraction had not reopened after a major renovation (it is now open to the public). A kind docent at Plečnik’s House put us in touch with the city’s tourism board, and they arranged a tour of Ljubljana that focused on the architecture of Plečnik. The city staff was exceptionally helpful.
Exceedingly a man of the people, Plečnik walked to work every day. He understood pedestrian traffic. Rivers that once divided cities into separate towns needed to be crossed easily and often. Jože Plečnik created a master plan for the riverfront of the city he loved, combining structure, beauty and unique designs to help the common townsperson live a better life.
Detail of the Triple Bridge
Jože Plečnik’s most famous work spans across the Ljubljanica River at Prešeren Square, the iconic Triple Bridge. One of Plečnik’s recurring themes was reuse. Instead of destroying the existing bridge, he modified it by supplementing the crowded thoroughfare with two smaller bridges, one on each side. The new bridges include stairs leading to the lower, terraced banks of the river, now housing outdoor seating for Ljubljana’s thriving café scene. This space is wonderful! There is always activity, something fun to observe. My biggest challenge with the design, the Triple Bridge is not easy to photograph. It is almost impossible to capture the splendid structure without an aerial view.
Continuing from the Triple Bridge and Prešeren Square, a short walk south along the river takes you to the Cobbler’s Bridge. There has been a bridge in this location for a long time, around the 1200s. The current version, designed by Plečnik in 1931, uses stone columns topped with ornate capitals to decorate the crossing. Again, Plečnik chose to recycle and reuse. While he wanted to build a grand bridge in this location, he did not want to destroy the existing cast iron bridge. So, he simply relocated it up the river to the next desirable crossing. The old Cobbler’s Bridge, known as the Mortuary Bridge due to the cemetery on one side, is still in use today. We even walked across it earlier that day!
Cobblers’ Bridge
The Butcher’s Bridge was not designed by Jože Plečnik, but it was planned by him in the 1930s. Plečnik desired to build a bridge in this location, linking the New Town with the Riverside Market, but was never able to build it. Finally constructed in 2010, this last remaining piece of Plečnik master plan was completed. The glass and metal structure adds a modern twist to Ljubljana’s fantastic collection of bridges. Artwork by sculpture Jakov Brdar on the wide bridge deck add to the modern feel of the Butcher’s Bridge.
The Butcher’s Bridge
Jože Plečnik also designed the colonnaded Riverside Market, which stretches from the Triple Bridge to the Dragon Bridge on the Old Town side of the Ljubljanica River. The pleasant repetition of classic stone columns adds to the charm of the entire area. While not related to Plečnik, don’t miss the photogenic Dragon Bridge, just past the Butcher’s Bridge.
Riverside Market from the Dragon Bridge
Other buildings designed by Plečnik can be found throughout the city, including the monumental National and University Library of Slovenia.
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