From Texas to Beyond

Local, Near and Far: Our journey of exploring the world.

Page 21 of 31

The Great Burger Adventure

Every Friday we take a break from our regular blogging schedule to allow the authors an opportunity to feature a certain topic they are passionate about. In the past you’ve read about art, studying abroad, and experiencing culture through food. Through this and other future posts we hope you’ll enjoy reading, we hope to share with you our personalities, passions, and interests on a more personal level.

My feature is once again on food. What can I say, I love food and love talking about it. Many take the military philosophy of consuming food in the quickest amount of time possible without enjoying a morsel of it. Food can serve as a  reminder of all that went in to making the meal you are about to partake; each dish takes a great number of things: a farmer, grocer, cook and many things in between. Food is one of those things that stir up memories in us–sometimes we can remember what we were eating during a really good (or bad) situation and it can remind us of loved ones that are no longer with us. It reminds us of home. Food is a way that tells a story of our lives. Food helps us remember, but also gives us things to look forward to. Food can cause the most introverted of people, a person that hates to debate, to become a staunch debater as they clamor for their favorite food or restaurant being the best. Food is my passion, and one of my favorite foods is the hamburger.

I have been on a personal quest to find the best and greatest hamburgers in the U.S.. Throughout my life, I have loved burgers. I would probably eat a burger every day if I could. 

Burgers are wonderful because they are fairly easy to make, but doing this simple act right is difficult. That is the beauty in this quest. Many fondly recall the times in the backyard, camping or at the ballpark eating a burger that just came off the grill. It probably had American cheese on it but there was something to that smell, the seared crust, and freshness. The burger’s greatness allows people to put either a few ingredients on it or 20 different ingredients if they chose; it is that versatile.

This post is not a grading rubric like the barbeque, Tex-Mex, or brewery tours, but simply sharing my personal quest to find the best burgers around and what I love, enjoy, and look for in a good burger. A possible rubric will be done in the future, but this is just my passion for a good burger.

What I look for? Those that know me know I am a “traditionalist.” This means that typically I like foods the way they were meant to be served. This does not mean I only eat burgers. or that I don’t try new things. I love food adventures, however, I generally prefer food in its most traditional sense. I am fine every once in a while taking a classic dish and putting a new spin on it. That is great and honestly some dishes need a modern twist, but I don’t want that all the time. If I want chili, I want a legitimate chili that is simply a traditional chili. I don’t want to order a chili and get it with a bunch of things like carrots and corn or anything else that belongs in a salad. I don’t want to order stroganoff and get some weird deconstructed plate that has a foam as a sauce, some tofu for the protein and quinoa as the carb. I want my classic stroganoff. I will of course try the weird stroganoff, but I would probably prefer the classic dish done perfectly than the weird dish for the sake of being weird or different.

So how does this pertain to a burger? If I was to evaluate a burger place, can I truly assess a normal burger at one place with a specialty burger at another? I think it is great to have 20-30 different topping options like bacon, grilled peaches, a fried egg, or foie gras; but those options don’t necessarily tell me that restaurant knows how to make a good burger. At that point, I probably can’t taste much of the meat. To know if a burger is good, I believe you have to keep it simple–once you know and enjoy the simple, then you can move toward the pineapple, goat cheese, and ghost pepper concoction. A simple burger to me means an all beef patty, cheese, a favorable bun-to-burger ratio, sauce (if any) and traditional toppings of tomato, lettuce, and pickles.

The burger must truly be an all beef patty. I am not the type that will go to a burger place and order the chicken sandwich or a salad (the healthy realtor can tell you all the best chicken sandwiches and salads to get at burger places, but that is not me).  I want my burger to be juicy and not overly done; for me, the patty should be a medium, however I know some places will do medium-well (my max burger doneness) or well done. Likewise, some people don’t like the juices (or grease) getting all over their hands, that doesn’t bother me. That is what napkins are for and when no one is looking, just lick your fingers.

I love cheese as do the other authors. I know American cheese is probably the classic burger cheese in America, but I can’t do that. It is fine every now and then as it offers a sense of nostalgia. I really enjoy a good cheddar or blue cheese on my burger. The flavors of goat cheese are making their way up the list of favorites but this is not a traditional flavor and will probably never overtake cheddar.

Other factors: The bun-to-burger ratio should be proportional and not be out-of-whack. I also don’t want a bun that can’t stand up to the patty as the bun disintegrates and becomes a sloppy, gooey mess. If the burger has toppings, it has to be able to stand up to the patty and bun. If there is tomato, lettuce and pickles, it better be good–not wet, limp, and/or mushy. There must be enough sauce (whether that is mustard, mayo, ketchup, secret sauce, whatever) and it enhances the flavors, but not be so overpowering such that sauce is all you taste. Some of my favorite burgers are served on a poppy seed bun, which is probably my preference, but few places serve this bun.

My favorite burger places are typically dives, that don’t have a ton of options. I appreciate places that give you customizable choices and can appreciate the value from a business perspective, but there is something to the simplicity of a menu that just says, “1. Burger 2. Cheeseburger.” The toppings can cover a bunch of mistakes, but take away from the quality of a good burger. Everything on a burger should enhance flavors and not take away from the original design. I know there is a restaurant in New York that serves a $100 hamburger. The thing is, if I go to a nice restaurant, I don’t know if I want to pay more than $12-$15 for a burger. After all, it is a burger and not a steak. 

During some of my future feature posts, I will share some of my favorite burgers and burger restaurants in different cities and states. Also, I will share with you some of my favorite fast food and “fast casual” burgers. For now, here is a *brief* preview of some of my favorite burgers in DFW:

Legit Burger Places (non-chain, Independent places): I do not have an all-time favorite as I am just on this quest to find the best burgers offered. I also feel like I have not found a truly great, tell all your friends burger yet. In the Fort Worth area, Rodeo Goat was recently voted the best burger in the area. I think they are good but not great. The Chaca Oaxaca (beef and chorizo) is good and I like that they have burger wars, but I just feel disappointed when I leave and don’t feel like they are the best. The Dirty Love burger from The Love Shack is a favorite, as it includes bacon, “love” sauce, and a fried quail egg. One more favorite is from Burgundy’s Meat Market. This farm turned their meat market into a restaurant and offers organic, grass-fed burgers that are dynamite. They have a limited menu of Burger, cheeseburger, hot dog and chili. 

In Dallas, I like the simplicity and atmosphere of Keller’s Drive-In. You order by turning on your hazard lights. The number 5 (double meat) on a poppy seed bun with the sauce is simply wonderful. Best of all, Keller’s offers a quality burger, fries and drink for a very reasonable price. I love Twisted Root (also voted a best burger by some magazines) as they offer a good variety of options including game burgers, but try the Western which has Pepperjack, bacon, fried onions, and jalepenos.

This is not a comprehensive list as these are just some of the burgers that stick out the most to me. As long as my heart allows, I plan to keep eating burgers across the U.S. to find one that is truly memorable and that will leave me wanting to go back to that place just for a burger.

Saint Vitus Cathedral – Prague

When you think of Prague, you think of a giant castle on top of a hill overlooking the Vltava River with the stunning spires of St. Vitus Cathedral pointing to the heavens.  So when David and I made our plans to visit Prague, we knew the Cathedral was on our must see list.

The official name is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saints, Vitus, Wenceslaus, and Adalbert.  It is open daily from 9:00am to 5:00pm April – October and 9:00am-4:00pm November – March.  No tours are available Sunday mornings, but you can attend mass and experience Czech culture first hand.  The church is a beautiful example of Gothic and Neo-Gothic architecture with flying buttresses that took 600 years to build!

St. Vitus Cathedral 61Now, you can walk up that big ol’ hill to access the Prague Castle complex, but we opted to take a tram up and walk down later that evening.  You can purchase tram tickets at some hotels, convenience stores or little kiosks along some of the major routes.  Tram 22 makes the steep ascent easy, with convenient pick-up near the Charles Bridge.

Once inside the Castle, you will need a ticket.  As discussed in the previous post, there are a few ticket options.  We purchased the short-tour ticket, which gave us access to Saint Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, Saint George’s Basilica and the quaint Golden Lane for 250 Crowns ($12 at the time) per person.

St. Vitus Cathedral 57

Ceiling of St. Vitus

Actually, access to a portion of the Cathedral is free, but you are restricted to the very back of the church.  If you have tickets you are able to explore the full structure.  The story behind the tickets is an interesting issue of separation of Church and State.  The church is a national treasure for Czechs, and is one of the country’s most beloved pieces of art.  The church contains many relics and tombs of Czech kings, national heroes and local saints.  Three Habsburg kings are also buried inside.  After the fall of communism, the ownership rights of the Cathedral were disputed between the State and the Church, each claiming they were the rightful owners.  In 2006, a court ruled in favor of the Church against the popular opinion.  Strapped for cash, the Church immediately began charging an entrance fee.  This made many Czechs upset.  Then in 2008, the courts overturned the earlier decision, returning ownership of the Cathedral to the State, which eliminated the entrance fee.  Finally in 2011, an archbishop proposed a compromise of co-ownership between the Church and the State.  Now, any person may enter this national landmark for free.  However, if you want to pass the rope, you must pay for a ticket to gain access to the chapels and holy relics inside.

There are many reasons to visit the Cathedral, such as the Wenceslas Chapel.  Yes that is the same Wenceslas from the Christmas carol, Good King Wenceslas.  Wenceslas was considered the Czech’s most enlightened, beloved and honored king.  However, the stained glass windows mesmerized me!  They were just breathtaking.  I have never seen stained glass windows so beautiful.  The colors used were so rich and vibrant, that the walls and pews glowed!

Mucha's Stained Glass Window

Mucha’s Stained Glass Window

By far, the most admired stained glass window features the work of the pioneering Art Nouveau Czech artist, Alfons Mucha.  Those who did not pay the church’s entrance fee will barely see this window.  We highly recommend paying the entrance fee so you can stand directly in front of this stained glass masterpiece.  In general when viewing Mucha’s work, consider that he used colors to convey different ideas.  White represents peace, red for war, blue for the past and orange for the future.  He used stained glass but also painted on the glass to achieve a wonderfully-different effect.  Most stained glass windows in a cathedral focus on biblical themes, but Mucha’s theme traces the history of the Czech people, including religious and historical figures.  If you love this window, David shared about Mucha’s nationalistic series of masterpieces, The Slav Epic, in an earlier post.

The crowds will come and go.  If you want to look at something in more detail, just wait for the tour groups to pass.  Soon you will have a break from the crowds, and then you can devote your full attention to the scene that grabbed your attention.

For one last memory of this great church, stroll through the Castle complex at night.  It is beautiful!

View of St. Vitus Cathedral from Strahov Monastary

View of St. Vitus Cathedral from Strahov Monastary

Prague Castle

With time running short during our two-day visit to Prague, there was one mandatory site Rebekah and I had not yet explored, Prague Castle.  All over town, we caught glimpses of the Castle looming in the distance.  On our second day, we devoted most of our afternoon to exploring this area.

Prague Castle, a collection of courtyards, churches, and royal palaces has been a seat of power for hundreds of years.  Even today, the Castle houses the Czech government, with the presidential residence still located within the historic complex.

We caught Tram 22 near the Charles Bridge and enjoyed the scenic ride through the Little Quarter as the tram made the steep ascent to the Castle.  We hopped off the tram and crossed a bridge spanning the moat, now overgrown with trees.  Passing between two Czech soldiers at the gate, we entered Prague Castle.

Prague Castle Grounds

Prague Castle Grounds

Once inside, we ducked into a one of three ticket offices, and bought our passes.  While you can take a free stroll inside the complex and view the exterior of the buildings, you need a ticket to enter them.  There are a few ticket options, but thanks to Rick Steves, we knew we wanted the short-tour ticket, which gave us access to Saint Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, Saint George’s Basilica and the quaint Golden Lane for 250 Crowns ($12 at the time) per person.  Now, we were ready to see the sights!

We entered a large, beautiful courtyard that was undergoing restoration, and followed the crowds through a large archway.  We were suddenly greeted by the sheer magnitude of Saint Vitus Cathedral!  It is giant!  The Cathedral is so large, and in such a tight space, I could not stand far enough back to take it all in.  The giant scale made taking a good photo of the front (west) façade challenging!  In order to properly do justice to Saint Vitus Cathedral, Rebekah will take a more detailed look at this national and religious landmark in the next post.

The Old Royal Palace

The Old Royal Palace

After Saint Vitus Cathedral, we visited the Old Royal Palace, with its splendid ball room spread out before us.  Except in the main room, employees dutifully reminded the crowds that only “licensed” photographers were allowed to take pictures.  This took away from the overall joy of the experience.  If you pay a relatively small fee, you too can become “licensed.”  However, if you take the time to explore some of the upper rooms, you will end up on a balcony with sweeping views of the other three districts of Prague!

St. George's Basilica

St. George’s Basilica

Next stop, Saint George’s Basilica.  The Basilica’s Romanesque design sharply contrasts the Gothic and Neo-Gothic styles of Saint Vitus, towering only feet away from the much older Basilica.  The painted exterior is wonderful!  Inside, the church is intimate, yet hollow.  Sound vibrates off the thick stone walls.  A surprising amount of light found its way into the structure from a few small windows high in the walls.

Finally yielding to our hunger, we ate a very late lunch/early dinner at the Lobkowicz Palace Café.  Perched above the Little Quarter on the balcony, we enjoyed delicious food while taking in the scenic view of the city!  I loved my Czech Goulash with dumplings; definitely my best meal in the Czech Republic!  Rebekah opted for a roast beef sandwich that was almost as good.  We tried the Lobkowicz’s family brew, Lobkowicz Knízeci Pivovar.  The beer was light yet extremely tasty, but a little pricey by Czech standards.  The bill for two meals and a pint was 600 Crowns, less than $30.  Not bad for a nice meal with a splendid view!  The café also accepts credit cards.  We did not pay the entrance fee to visit the rest of the palace, but hear it is the best palace in Prague.

Czeck Goulash with Dumplings at the Lobkowicz Palace Café

Czeck Goulash with Dumplings at the Lobkowicz Palace Café

Strolling the Golden Lane

Strolling the Golden Lane

The last attraction, the Golden Lane, is a narrow street with very small houses.  These cottages once housed castle servants.  The Czech author Franz Kafka called #22 home.  Now, these miniature structures hold shops, museums and a pub.  We strolled the street after 5:00 PM, when a ticket was no longer required.  Unfortunately, most of the shops and attractions were closed.  However, the crowds also disappeared, allowing us to take in the charm of the cozy lane!

On the way to Strahov Monastery for a sunset view of Prague, we passed through the Castle Square, with its Plague Column and more palaces.

On the return journey, we walked through the Castle Quarter, down to the Little Quarter and crossed the Charles Bridge into the Old Town. This entire walk was wonderful, the Castle after sunset is magical!  The throngs of tourists have moved to other venues, and we were left with a romantic backdrop for an evening stroll.  Since it is the seat of government, the area is well-lit and patrolled, so it is very safe even though it is quiet.  This downhill walk was an amazing recap of Prague’s many highlights!

The Music of Prague

A Statue Honoring Dvořák infront of the Czech Philharmonic

A Statue Honoring Dvořák

When David and I planned our Prague trip, I knew I HAD to experience a concert featuring the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák.  He is my second favorite composer, after the German composer, Brahms.  Dvořák’s music is compelling, emotional and stirs your spirit.

Other notable composers, such as Bedřich Smetana and Leoš Janáček, were also influenced by the lands of the Czech Republic.  The Czech culture has a true love and respect for great music and great composers!  When we visited the Vyšehrad Cemetery filled with national heroes, we saw their final resting places.  After their deaths, the Czech people celebrate these composers across the country through monuments, statues and performance halls named in their honor.

Mozart also has a connection to Prague.  Prague proudly hosted the first performances of his operas Don Giovanni and La clemenza di Tito, and of his Symphony No. 38, also known as the Prague Symphony.

But before I could listen to the music of Prague, I needed tickets.  There is a great ticket office that sells tickets for all of the concerts and theater shows offered throughout the city.  Located in the Old Town Square, walk through the little alley between the buildings in front of the Týn Church, where the front doors of the church are.  Once in the alley, the ticket office is on your left.  There are a lot of options!  You can find your perfect combination of price, venue and style of music.  If in doubt, the friendly staff will help you make your selection.  Tickets are sold for the day of the event, or a few days out.

When picking our tickets, my first priority was to hear Dvořák.  We decided to use the concert as a way to visit a venue we otherwise would not have access to see.  We decided on a chamber ensemble performing at the Municipal House.   The two tickets cost 1,460 Crowns, or $70 total.  You will pay so much more for similar tickets in Vienna.  Take advantage of the prices and professionalism in Prague.

Exterior of Municipal House

Exterior of Municipal House

The Municipal House is an incredible performance hall!  Located in the New Town next to the Powder Tower.  It is easily accessible from anywhere in the city.  The Municipal House is a block away from a major subway and tram stop.  Since it was just a few blocks from our hotel, we enjoyed the short walk.  I cannot imagine a building that exemplifies Art Nouveau more than this hall.  Every single detail of the exterior and interior was just beautiful!  We arrived a little early so we were able to explore a little bit.  There is a café on the first level and a bar/pub in the basement available to all.  In order enter the concert hall, you need tickets (although tours are offered during the day).  Since the group we saw perform rented the hall, certain features were not available.  A curtain covered the pipe organ, and the stunning ceiling glass feature was not lit.  Even so, these adjustments did not take away from our overall experience.

Municipal House Performance Hall

Municipal House Performance Hall

The music was excellent!  If you are not familiar with Dvořák, I suggest looking up the following pieces so you can learn a bit about him and hear the music we experienced that night:  Symphony No. 9 in E minor, Op. 95 popularly known as The New World Symphony, Slavonic Dances, and Songs My Mother Taught Me.  The New World Symphony was written when Dvořák lived in the United States for a short time.  In this piece, you can hear him exploring a new place.  The result is exciting and mesmerizing.  But throughout the piece you will hear a theme that is filled with longing and homesickness as he misses his country and home…just beautiful.  The Slavonic Dances make you want to be in a giant dance hall laughing and twirling around until your legs can’t move.  In Songs My Mother Taught Me, you can see a mother caring for her children, singing to them, and passing on a proud musical heritage to the next generation.  The concert also featured some works by Mozart.  After the concert, we meandered back to the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square and grabbed a little ice cream.

Now that I have visited the Czech Republic, experiencing first-hand the generous, kind people that are deeply rooted in their cultural identity, I am able to better understand Dvořák’s homesick when he wrote the moving notes of New World Symphony.

Foreigners in a Local’s Pub

It was our first day in Prague, and we were starving!

After enjoying Czech art at Mucha’s Slav Epic, Rebekah and I were hoping to find a local pub for lunch and  since it was after 2:00 PM, the delicious breakfast from our hotel had worn off.  Following a recommendation, we found the Golden Tiger Pub, located a short walk from the touristy Old Town Square.  The Rick Steves guidebook warned that it was not a tourist-friendly pub.  Not that the place was unfriendly, but that this pub catered to locals.  That was an understatement.

Exterior of the Golden Tiger Pub

Exterior of the Golden Tiger Pub

As we entered the pub’s rectangular room with simple tables and benches stretched along the long walls, we looked for an empty space.  All the tables were packed.  Catching the eye of an employee, I attempted to ask him for a table.  He simply walked away.  Total fail.  When I returned to the bar he saw I was still there, and stated abruptly, “Wait here.”  After a few minutes, he returned for us, ushering us to a table with four other people.  He indicated we were to sit down by tossing two beer coasters on the table.  Before walking off without saying a word, he set a blank sheet of paper on the table.

We sat, encouraged by this small achievement.  We had a table.  I looked for a menu, even turning the sheet of paper over in hopes of finding a list of food and drink options.  Blank on the other side.  Feeling out of place, we surveyed the other guests at our table.  A young Czech couple sat next to me.  On Rebekah’s side of the table, two retired Czech men chatted away.  No one acknowledged us.

Suddenly, two full pints of Czech beer were set before us.  Just as quickly, two hatch marks were added to our blank sheet of paper.  “Oh, that’s the tab”, I realized.  “But why had we received beers without ordering?” I wondered.  As I looked at other tables, I realized everyone was drinking the same beer from the same glass.  I guess this pub only serves one beer (Pilsner Urquell), and why would you be at a pub if you did not want a beer?  I sipped the beer, enjoying the light yet flavorful taste.  This is how a pilsner should taste.

The beer was wonderful, but we still had not ordered food, and we were hungry!  When we entered, I noticed food on other tables.  Finally catching our server’s attention, I requested a menu.  He responded by walking off.  He left me again feeling discouraged.  However, in two minutes, he presented us with one menu to share.

We decided on a sausage plate and some beer cheese.  Shockingly, our nameless waiter was back within a few moments to take our order.  We pointed to our choices, and he briskly took the menu back from us, giving it to another table.  Our order had been taken promptly because there were only a few food menus for the entire pub, and they needed it back.

Drinking the local brew, we waited for the food.  A basket of bread appeared first.  Soon after, two plates arrived at our table.  The sausage, served with a house-made mustard and horseradish sauce was delicious.  The beer cheese plate was a bit of a mystery.  Two blobs dominated the dish, along with mustard and chopped onions.  Thinking the smaller blob was cheese, Rebekah took a bite.  Pure butter.  She chased the butter with some bread.  The first blob was the only cheese.  And it smelled.  With some effort, we spread the cheese on our bread.  Adding the sausage, mustard and onions, we made miniature sandwiches.  It was delicious!  However, the Czechs at the table were visibly amused.

Almost finished with our meal, the young man sitting next to me turned away from his date, and asks, “What do you think of the cheese?”  After sitting there for almost an hour and a half, our new friend spoke to us!  Rebekah replied, “It is a bit strong.”  He laughed, and informed us that we are eating it incorrectly.  “You do not eat it on the bread”, he stated.  I inquired, “How do you eat it then?”  He replied, “I will show you,” ordering his own beer cheese.  Turning back to the woman, he resumed his conversation without us.

Once his order arrived, he took a fork and began mashing the blob of cheese, mixing in the butter, mustard and onions.  Still talking with his friend, he slowly, mechanically mixed his cheese for 15 minutes.  It seemed like an hour.  After this, he signaled to the waiter, who then brought a small shot glass full of a white liquid.  Dumping it on the plate, he handed the glass back to the waiter without a word.  For another ten minutes, he mixed the beer head/foam into the cheese concoction.  Once complete, he turned to us and said, “This is how you eat the cheese.”  Taking his knife, he smeared the mixture on a slice of bread, and proceeded to consume the entire concoction.

The Surprise Second Round

The Surprise Second Round

Thinking this unique experience was almost over, we began thinking about our bill.  Before we could act, Rebekah’s empty beer stein was replaced with a full mug, and a third mark was added to our sheet of paper.  I naïvely said, “I’ll help you with that,” thinking I had bested the unfamiliar system since I had left a small amount of beer in the bottom of my glass.  However, as soon as I took a sip from her beer, my mug was also replenished, and a fourth mark added to our bill.  Needless to say, we would be here for a while.  The man next to me became more talkative, and shared some insights into the city and the music scene.  This turned out to be a wonderful delay!

Two and a half hours after entering the Golden Tiger Pub, we managed to pay our bill.  Not sure how to make the beer stop arriving, I put my wallet and money on the table, trying to convey, “We are ready to give you money!”  The entire meal cost $14.40.  For such a small amount of money, we had an amazing experience, one we will never forget.  And we now know how to eat beer cheese in Prague!

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