Category: Prague (Page 1 of 3)

View of Church of Saint Vitus from Český Krumlov Castle

The People of the Czech Republic

July 10, 2015 / Rebekah / 0 Comments

Every Friday we take a break from our regular blogging schedule to allow the authors an opportunity to feature a certain topic they are passionate about. In the past you’ve read about art, studying abroad, experiencing culture through food, and the great burger adventure. Through this and other future posts we hope you’ll enjoy reading, we hope to share with you our personalities, passions, and interests on a more personal level.

While traveling, you can see the best art, taste decadent food, and experience the most exhilarating adventures. But what makes a trip most enjoyable for me is the people I meet. This is one of the reasons I am addicted to traveling. Meeting new people, sharing in their culture, and understanding their past is a joy.

Making a Trdelnik, a Czech-Style Donut

When we returned from the Czech Republic, one of the highlights I shared was the incredibly hospitable people! Our exposure to generous Czechs started before we even stepped in their land. While we were preparing for the trip, our interaction through email was great. Then when we arrived, every person from a taxi driver to hotel owners went out of their way to make us feel at home. It made me want to stay!

Vyšehrad – Prague

May 18, 2015 / Rebekah / 0 Comments

You must go to Vyšehrad (VEE-sheh-rahd) when you visit Prague. Check out how we spent our time in our Prague overview post. I always enjoy finding the things that are out of the way for tourists and see how the locals enjoy their home. We took the Red metro line that stops at Vyšehrad. Follow the signs when walking across the platform, then through a residential area. Just when you think you have walked too long and missed a turn, you will see the fortress. We chose to walk back to the Charles Bridge along the Vltava River catching a great view of the Dancing House, know as “Fred and Ginger.”

Looking out over the Vltava River

Vyšehrad is a 17th century fortress, now park. Walk around the gardens for hours getting lost in the trails and stopping at memorials, statues, a cafe, and even a contemporary art gallery. If you really want to enjoy the park, bring a picnic and take in the green lawns with the swaying trees above you. It is a breath of fresh air and calmness compared to the city center.

The Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul 24

From inside the cemetery looking at The Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul

After walking along the ramparts of the fortress and seeing some great sights of the city, the Vltava River and the Prague Castle, we stopped at the Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul and a National Cemetery. For me, the cemetery was one the highlights of the whole trip!!! And I don’t think I have ever said I enjoyed going to a cemetery before.

Dvořák’s Graveside

Many Czech artists, sculptors, and musicians have been buried here. There is a map at the entrance gate to help you navigate the cemetery. Artists such as Mucha, and composers Dvořák (one of my favorites) and Smetana are a few to visit. But the things that impressed me the most was the BEAUTIFUL and THOUGHTFUL care of the cemetery as well as the artistic graves. It was a great insight into Czech artistry and the way they honor the past.

When I saw the statue of the woman, featured at the top of the post, I was mesmerized. I long to be this woman, looking peaceful and going to be with her Creator. I could not leave her. I just wanted to keep taking pictures to capture the feeling of being there. Our time in the cemetery was a powerful expereince in our trip to Prague.

This sculpture of the hands was another grave that was a beautiful piece of art. After wandering around the grounds, you too will find your favorite spot!

Saint Vitus Cathedral – Prague

May 14, 2015 / Rebekah / 0 Comments

When you think of Prague, you think of a giant castle on top of a hill overlooking the Vltava River with the stunning spires of St. Vitus Cathedral pointing to the heavens. So when David and I made our plans to visit Prague, we knew the Cathedral was on our must see list.

The official name is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saints, Vitus, Wenceslaus, and Adalbert. It is open daily from 9:00am to 5:00pm April – October and 9:00am-4:00pm November – March. No tours are available Sunday mornings, but you can attend mass and experience Czech culture first hand. The church is a beautiful example of Gothic and Neo-Gothic architecture with flying buttresses that took 600 years to build!

Now, you can walk up that big ol’ hill to access the Prague Castle complex, but we opted to take a tram up and walk down later that evening. You can purchase tram tickets at some hotels, convenience stores or little kiosks along some of the major routes. Tram 22 makes the steep ascent easy, with convenient pick-up near the Charles Bridge.

Once inside the Castle, you will need a ticket. As discussed in the previous post, there are a few ticket options. We purchased the short-tour ticket, which gave us access to Saint Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, Saint George’s Basilica and the quaint Golden Lane for 250 Crowns ($12 at the time) per person.

Ceiling of St. Vitus

Actually, access to a portion of the Cathedral is free, but you are restricted to the very back of the church. If you have tickets you are able to explore the full structure. The story behind the tickets is an interesting issue of separation of Church and State. The church is a national treasure for Czechs, and is one of the country’s most beloved pieces of art. The church contains many relics and tombs of Czech kings, national heroes and local saints. Three Habsburg kings are also buried inside. After the fall of communism, the ownership rights of the Cathedral were disputed between the State and the Church, each claiming they were the rightful owners. In 2006, a court ruled in favor of the Church against the popular opinion. Strapped for cash, the Church immediately began charging an entrance fee. This made many Czechs upset. Then in 2008, the courts overturned the earlier decision, returning ownership of the Cathedral to the State, which eliminated the entrance fee. Finally in 2011, an archbishop proposed a compromise of co-ownership between the Church and the State. Now, any person may enter this national landmark for free. However, if you want to pass the rope, you must pay for a ticket to gain access to the chapels and holy relics inside.

There are many reasons to visit the Cathedral, such as the Wenceslas Chapel. Yes that is the same Wenceslas from the Christmas carol, Good King Wenceslas. Wenceslas was considered the Czech’s most enlightened, beloved and honored king. However, the stained glass windows mesmerized me! They were just breathtaking. I have never seen stained glass windows so beautiful. The colors used were so rich and vibrant, that the walls and pews glowed!

Mucha’s Stained Glass Window

By far, the most admired stained glass window features the work of the pioneering Art Nouveau Czech artist, Alfons Mucha. Those who did not pay the church’s entrance fee will barely see this window. We highly recommend paying the entrance fee so you can stand directly in front of this stained glass masterpiece. In general when viewing Mucha’s work, consider that he used colors to convey different ideas. White represents peace, red for war, blue for the past and orange for the future. He used stained glass but also painted on the glass to achieve a wonderfully-different effect. Most stained glass windows in a cathedral focus on biblical themes, but Mucha’s theme traces the history of the Czech people, including religious and historical figures. If you love this window, David shared about Mucha’s nationalistic series of masterpieces, The Slav Epic, in an earlier post.

The crowds will come and go. If you want to look at something in more detail, just wait for the tour groups to pass. Soon you will have a break from the crowds, and then you can devote your full attention to the scene that grabbed your attention.

For one last memory of this great church, stroll through the Castle complex at night. It is beautiful!

View of St. Vitus Cathedral from Strahov Monastary

Prague Castle

May 13, 2015 / David / 2 Comments

With time running short during our two-day visit to Prague, there was one mandatory site Rebekah and I had not yet explored, Prague Castle. All over town, we caught glimpses of the Castle looming in the distance. On our second day, we devoted most of our afternoon to exploring this area.

Prague Castle, a collection of courtyards, churches, and royal palaces has been a seat of power for hundreds of years. Even today, the Castle houses the Czech government, with the presidential residence still located within the historic complex.

We caught Tram 22 near the Charles Bridge and enjoyed the scenic ride through the Little Quarter as the tram made the steep ascent to the Castle. We hopped off the tram and crossed a bridge spanning the moat, now overgrown with trees. Passing between two Czech soldiers at the gate, we entered Prague Castle.

Prague Castle Grounds

Once inside, we ducked into a one of three ticket offices, and bought our passes. While you can take a free stroll inside the complex and view the exterior of the buildings, you need a ticket to enter them. There are a few ticket options, but thanks to Rick Steves, we knew we wanted the short-tour ticket, which gave us access to Saint Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, Saint George’s Basilica and the quaint Golden Lane for 250 Crowns ($12 at the time) per person. Now, we were ready to see the sights!

We entered a large, beautiful courtyard that was undergoing restoration, and followed the crowds through a large archway. We were suddenly greeted by the sheer magnitude of Saint Vitus Cathedral! It is giant! The Cathedral is so large, and in such a tight space, I could not stand far enough back to take it all in. The giant scale made taking a good photo of the front (west) façade challenging! In order to properly do justice to Saint Vitus Cathedral, Rebekah will take a more detailed look at this national and religious landmark in the next post.

The Old Royal Palace

After Saint Vitus Cathedral, we visited the Old Royal Palace, with its splendid ball room spread out before us. Except in the main room, employees dutifully reminded the crowds that only “licensed” photographers were allowed to take pictures. This took away from the overall joy of the experience. If you pay a relatively small fee, you too can become “licensed.” However, if you take the time to explore some of the upper rooms, you will end up on a balcony with sweeping views of the other three districts of Prague!

St. George’s Basilica

Next stop, Saint George’s Basilica. The Basilica’s Romanesque design sharply contrasts the Gothic and Neo-Gothic styles of Saint Vitus, towering only feet away from the much older Basilica. The painted exterior is wonderful! Inside, the church is intimate, yet hollow. Sound vibrates off the thick stone walls. A surprising amount of light found its way into the structure from a few small windows high in the walls.

Finally yielding to our hunger, we ate a very late lunch/early dinner at the Lobkowicz Palace Café. Perched above the Little Quarter on the balcony, we enjoyed delicious food while taking in the scenic view of the city! I loved my Czech Goulash with dumplings; definitely my best meal in the Czech Republic! Rebekah opted for a roast beef sandwich that was almost as good. We tried the Lobkowicz’s family brew, Lobkowicz Knízeci Pivovar. The beer was light yet extremely tasty, but a little pricey by Czech standards. The bill for two meals and a pint was 600 Crowns, less than $30. Not bad for a nice meal with a splendid view! The café also accepts credit cards. We did not pay the entrance fee to visit the rest of the palace, but hear it is the best palace in Prague.

Czeck Goulash with Dumplings at the Lobkowicz Palace Café

Strolling the Golden Lane

The last attraction, the Golden Lane, is a narrow street with very small houses. These cottages once housed castle servants. The Czech author Franz Kafka called #22 home. Now, these miniature structures hold shops, museums and a pub. We strolled the street after 5:00 PM, when a ticket was no longer required. Unfortunately, most of the shops and attractions were closed. However, the crowds also disappeared, allowing us to take in the charm of the cozy lane!

On the way to Strahov Monastery for a sunset view of Prague, we passed through the Castle Square, with its Plague Column and more palaces.

On the return journey, we walked through the Castle Quarter, down to the Little Quarter and crossed the Charles Bridge into the Old Town. This entire walk was wonderful, the Castle after sunset is magical! The throngs of tourists have moved to other venues, and we were left with a romantic backdrop for an evening stroll. Since it is the seat of government, the area is well-lit and patrolled, so it is very safe even though it is quiet. This downhill walk was an amazing recap of Prague’s many highlights!

The Music of Prague

May 12, 2015 / Rebekah / 0 Comments

A Statue Honoring Dvořák

When David and I planned our Prague trip, I knew I HAD to experience a concert featuring the Czech composer Antonín Dvořák. He is my second favorite composer, after the German composer, Brahms. Dvořák’s music is compelling, emotional and stirs your spirit.

Other notable composers, such as Bedřich Smetana and Leoš Janáček, were also influenced by the lands of the Czech Republic. The Czech culture has a true love and respect for great music and great composers! When we visited the Vyšehrad Cemetery filled with national heroes, we saw their final resting places. After their deaths, the Czech people celebrate these composers across the country through monuments, statues and performance halls named in their honor.

Mozart also has a connection to Prague. Prague proudly hosted the first performances of his operas Don Giovanni and La clemenza di Tito, and of his Symphony No. 38, also known as the Prague Symphony.

But before I could listen to the music of Prague, I needed tickets. There is a great ticket office that sells tickets for all of the concerts and theater shows offered throughout the city. Located in the Old Town Square, walk through the little alley between the buildings in front of the Týn Church, where the front doors of the church are. Once in the alley, the ticket office is on your left. There are a lot of options! You can find your perfect combination of price, venue and style of music. If in doubt, the friendly staff will help you make your selection. Tickets are sold for the day of the event, or a few days out.

When picking our tickets, my first priority was to hear Dvořák. We decided to use the concert as a way to visit a venue we otherwise would not have access to see. We decided on a chamber ensemble performing at the Municipal House. The two tickets cost 1,460 Crowns, or $70 total. You will pay so much more for similar tickets in Vienna. Take advantage of the prices and professionalism in Prague.

Exterior of Municipal House

The Municipal House is an incredible performance hall! Located in the New Town next to the Powder Tower. It is easily accessible from anywhere in the city. The Municipal House is a block away from a major subway and tram stop. Since it was just a few blocks from our hotel, we enjoyed the short walk. I cannot imagine a building that exemplifies Art Nouveau more than this hall. Every single detail of the exterior and interior was just beautiful! We arrived a little early so we were able to explore a little bit. There is a café on the first level and a bar/pub in the basement available to all. In order enter the concert hall, you need tickets (although tours are offered during the day). Since the group we saw perform rented the hall, certain features were not available. A curtain covered the pipe organ, and the stunning ceiling glass feature was not lit. Even so, these adjustments did not take away from our overall experience.

Municipal House Performance Hall

The music was excellent! If you are not familiar with Dvořák, I suggest looking up the following pieces so you can learn a bit about him and hear the music we experienced that night: Symphony No. 9 in E minor, Op. 95 popularly known as The New World Symphony, Slavonic Dances, and Songs My Mother Taught Me. The New World Symphony was written when Dvořák lived in the United States for a short time. In this piece, you can hear him exploring a new place. The result is exciting and mesmerizing. But throughout the piece you will hear a theme that is filled with longing and homesickness as he misses his country and home…just beautiful. The Slavonic Dances make you want to be in a giant dance hall laughing and twirling around until your legs can’t move. In Songs My Mother Taught Me, you can see a mother caring for her children, singing to them, and passing on a proud musical heritage to the next generation. The concert also featured some works by Mozart. After the concert, we meandered back to the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square and grabbed a little ice cream.

Now that I have visited the Czech Republic, experiencing first-hand the generous, kind people that are deeply rooted in their cultural identity, I am able to better understand Dvořák’s homesick when he wrote the moving notes of New World Symphony.

Category: Prague (Page 1 of 3)

The People of the Czech Republic

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Vyšehrad – Prague

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Saint Vitus Cathedral – Prague

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Prague Castle

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The Music of Prague

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