It was our first day in Prague, and we were starving!
After enjoying Czech art at Mucha’s Slav Epic, Rebekah and I were hoping to find a local pub for lunch and since it was after 2:00 PM, the delicious breakfast from our hotel had worn off. Following a recommendation, we found the Golden Tiger Pub, located a short walk from the touristy Old Town Square. The Rick Steves guidebook warned that it was not a tourist-friendly pub. Not that the place was unfriendly, but that this pub catered to locals. That was an understatement.
Exterior of the Golden Tiger Pub
As we entered the pub’s rectangular room with simple tables and benches stretched along the long walls, we looked for an empty space. All the tables were packed. Catching the eye of an employee, I attempted to ask him for a table. He simply walked away. Total fail. When I returned to the bar he saw I was still there, and stated abruptly, “Wait here.” After a few minutes, he returned for us, ushering us to a table with four other people. He indicated we were to sit down by tossing two beer coasters on the table. Before walking off without saying a word, he set a blank sheet of paper on the table.
We sat, encouraged by this small achievement. We had a table. I looked for a menu, even turning the sheet of paper over in hopes of finding a list of food and drink options. Blank on the other side. Feeling out of place, we surveyed the other guests at our table. A young Czech couple sat next to me. On Rebekah’s side of the table, two retired Czech men chatted away. No one acknowledged us.
Suddenly, two full pints of Czech beer were set before us. Just as quickly, two hatch marks were added to our blank sheet of paper. “Oh, that’s the tab”, I realized. “But why had we received beers without ordering?” I wondered. As I looked at other tables, I realized everyone was drinking the same beer from the same glass. I guess this pub only serves one beer (Pilsner Urquell), and why would you be at a pub if you did not want a beer? I sipped the beer, enjoying the light yet flavorful taste. This is how a pilsner should taste.
The beer was wonderful, but we still had not ordered food, and we were hungry! When we entered, I noticed food on other tables. Finally catching our server’s attention, I requested a menu. He responded by walking off. He left me again feeling discouraged. However, in two minutes, he presented us with one menu to share.
We decided on a sausage plate and some beer cheese. Shockingly, our nameless waiter was back within a few moments to take our order. We pointed to our choices, and he briskly took the menu back from us, giving it to another table. Our order had been taken promptly because there were only a few food menus for the entire pub, and they needed it back.
Drinking the local brew, we waited for the food. A basket of bread appeared first. Soon after, two plates arrived at our table. The sausage, served with a house-made mustard and horseradish sauce was delicious. The beer cheese plate was a bit of a mystery. Two blobs dominated the dish, along with mustard and chopped onions. Thinking the smaller blob was cheese, Rebekah took a bite. Pure butter. She chased the butter with some bread. The first blob was the only cheese. And it smelled. With some effort, we spread the cheese on our bread. Adding the sausage, mustard and onions, we made miniature sandwiches. It was delicious! However, the Czechs at the table were visibly amused.
Almost finished with our meal, the young man sitting next to me turned away from his date, and asks, “What do you think of the cheese?” After sitting there for almost an hour and a half, our new friend spoke to us! Rebekah replied, “It is a bit strong.” He laughed, and informed us that we are eating it incorrectly. “You do not eat it on the bread”, he stated. I inquired, “How do you eat it then?” He replied, “I will show you,” ordering his own beer cheese. Turning back to the woman, he resumed his conversation without us.
Once his order arrived, he took a fork and began mashing the blob of cheese, mixing in the butter, mustard and onions. Still talking with his friend, he slowly, mechanically mixed his cheese for 15 minutes. It seemed like an hour. After this, he signaled to the waiter, who then brought a small shot glass full of a white liquid. Dumping it on the plate, he handed the glass back to the waiter without a word. For another ten minutes, he mixed the beer head/foam into the cheese concoction. Once complete, he turned to us and said, “This is how you eat the cheese.” Taking his knife, he smeared the mixture on a slice of bread, and proceeded to consume the entire concoction.
The Surprise Second Round
Thinking this unique experience was almost over, we began thinking about our bill. Before we could act, Rebekah’s empty beer stein was replaced with a full mug, and a third mark was added to our sheet of paper. I naïvely said, “I’ll help you with that,” thinking I had bested the unfamiliar system since I had left a small amount of beer in the bottom of my glass. However, as soon as I took a sip from her beer, my mug was also replenished, and a fourth mark added to our bill. Needless to say, we would be here for a while. The man next to me became more talkative, and shared some insights into the city and the music scene. This turned out to be a wonderful delay!
Two and a half hours after entering the Golden Tiger Pub, we managed to pay our bill. Not sure how to make the beer stop arriving, I put my wallet and money on the table, trying to convey, “We are ready to give you money!” The entire meal cost $14.40. For such a small amount of money, we had an amazing experience, one we will never forget. And we now know how to eat beer cheese in Prague!
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When I saw the statue of the woman, featured at the top of the post, I was mesmerized. I long to be this woman, looking peaceful and going to be with her Creator. I could not leave her. I just wanted to keep taking pictures to capture the feeling of being there. Our time in the cemetery was a powerful expereince in our trip to Prague.
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