Local, Near and Far: Our journey of exploring the world.

Author: David (Page 8 of 11)

The Slav Epic

Alfons Mucha’s Slav Epic was the highlight of our trip to Prague!

You may not have heard of Alfons Mucha before, but if you spend time in the Czech Republic, you will see his work and influence all around you! Mucha’s style became the foundation for Art Nouveau. Even without prior knowledge of Mucha, the Slav Epic is a must see cultural gem!

The Massive Paintings

The Massive Paintings

On 20 canvases, Alfons Mucha portrays the history and mythology of the Slavic people, spanning 1,500 years. Mucha devoted 18 years to completing the series. These nationalistic pieces of art helped unify the Slavic people, ultimately gaining their own country after World War I.

Exterior of the Veletrzni Palace

Exterior of the Veletrzni Palace

The Location: The enormous canvasses, some as large as 25 feet by 20 feet, are well-displayed in the Veletržní Palace. Located just outside the main touristic district, we caught a tram (Line 12, 14, 15 or 17), which dropped us at the museum entrance.

Viewing the Art: Today, viewing this collection provides a great overview for a modern visitor to Prague. Each piece chronologically portrays a scene from history or cultural folklore. The paintings will introduce you to the major political figures, which you will see celebrated throughout the Czech Republic. For example, find Jan Hus in the artwork. Hus tried to reform the Catholic Church more than 100 years before Martin Luther, but was burned at the stake for heresy. You will also find his statue in the center of the Old Town Square, and in Mucha’s stained glass window in St. Vitus Cathedral. Learning these historical figures will add depth and understanding to your visit as you find them at attractions across Prague and the Czech Republic.

Detail of the Apotheosis of the Slavs

Detail of the Apotheosis of the Slavs

When viewing the paintings, consider that colors are symbolic: white for peace, red for war, blue for the past and orange for the future. In addition, Mucha highlights the focal points in each work with extra detail applied with oil paint, making these figures pop out of the canvas.

The Cost: The Veletržní Palace has other great artwork as well, but with limited time, Rebekah and I only visited the Slav Epic exhibit. Based on the collections you wish to see, there are multiple choices when buying tickets at the front desk. Admission for the Slav Epic exhibition only is 180 CZK (about $9.00 at the time). Once inside the exhibit, there is a desk where you can purchase the English informational pamphlet for 10 CZK ($0.50). You SHOULD definitely do this! The descriptions of each piece bring the paintings to life with the background required to properly enjoy the works. Allow two hours to view the Slav Epic and read the descriptions.

The Gallery

The Gallery

Other Noteworthy Items:  If you find yourself in love with Mucha’s style after visiting the Slav Epic, there are two additional attractions in Prague where you can view more of his work.  As mentioned above, Mucha created a stained glass window in St. Vitus Catherdral, located within Prague Castle.  The window is simply stunning; a must see.  The second option, which we did not have time to visit, is the Alfons Mucha Museum in the New Town.

UPDATE:  The Slav Epic is currently closed.  Please check this link to verify that the Gallery has reopened prior to visiting.  The expected reopening is August 1, 2015.

Hotel Hastal Prague Old Town

When Rebekah and I travel, we look for a cheap but comfortable hotel near the town’s center. We do not like to pay a lot of money for a really nice hotel room, especially when we want to leave that room as much as possible to experience the culture surrounding us. To make the most of our time in Prague, we also valued staying in the heart of the city, with convenient access to our points of interest. Hotel Hastal Prague Old Town was the perfect fit!

View of the Square from our Room

View of the Square from our Room

Location: Hotel Hastal is located just outside the Jewish Quarter in Prague’s Old Town. The great location makes it easy to access all of Prague’s sights, especially if you take advantage of the subway and above-ground tram system. A tram stop is a short five minute walk east of the hotel. If you walk five minutes to the west, you will be standing in the Old Town Square, featuring the Tyn Church and the Old Town Hall Tower with its popular Astronomical Clock.

Our Double Room

Our Double Room

The Bathroom

The Bathroom

The Room: The hotel is not fancy, but is very comfortable and clean with a family-run feeling. Art Nouveau prints by Czech artist Alfons Mucha decorate the hallways and rooms. Our room provided plenty of space along with a double bed, desk, chair and closet. The room also included a small TV and a safe. The bathroom was spacious with a corner shower. The large double window overlooked a mostly quiet small square and church.

The Breakfast: A delicious breakfast of hot and cold food is included with the room. The buffet features eggs, sausage, meats, cheeses, breads, yogurts, cereals, and jams. Each day, a different coffee cake is served as well. The options do not rotate much from day to day, so plan accordingly for a long visit. As an added bonus, a coffee machine and tea are available 24 hours a day. This was a great perk, and added to the overall value of our room! We caffeinated up one afternoon before taking to the streets again for a concert at the Municipal House.

The Cost: Our double room cost us only 80 Euros (about $110 at the time) per night. We found the cheapest rate by emailing the hotel and booking directly with them. A credit card number was required to hold the room, but only cash (USD, Euros, or Crowns) was accepted at checkout. Since we knew ahead of time that Hotel Hastal would accept US Dollars, we avoided an ATM/exchange fees by bringing the required USD with us from home. Overall, the payment process was very easy.

Other Noteworthy Items: The staff was incredibly helpful and kind.  They even arranged a private car to pick us up at the airport since we were arriving at midnight and were not familiar with the city and public transportation. The transportation cost (29 Euros) was added to our hotel tab.  This was great because we had not figured out currency yet.  A bar serving Staropramen beer, a Czech beer staple, shares the breakfast room. Although the hotel bar sells some of Prague’s least expensive brews, we were not able to partake due to relatively early closing times.

View of the Church from our Room

View of the Church from our Room

Without a doubt, if we travel to Prague again, we would stay at Hotel Hastal.

As avid fans of Rick Steves, we bought his 2014 Prague & the Czech Republic Guidebook, where we first found information on this gem of a hotel.

Prague City Overview

Rebekah and I have always wanted to explore Eastern Europe, and Prague was the top city on our list.  Prague, the City of a Hundred Spires.  When we found a cheap flight to Prague using frequent flyer miles, we didn’t think twice about booking the flight!

After much planning, we decided to spend four of our ten day European trip exploring the Czech Republic.  We also wanted to see the Czech Republic beyond Prague, so we limited our time in Prague so we could travel 4 hours south by train to the picturesque Czech town of Český Krumlov.  This decision left us with two full days in Prague.  Looking back, two days is theoretically enough time to catch the Prague highlights, but we moved quickly to cover so much ground.  You could have easily spent a week in Prague, including short day trips to see the surrounding countryside complete with small castle towns.

To make the most of our time, we researched the destination beforehand so we could spend our time on the ground enjoying.  Rick Steves 2014 Prague & the Czech Republic Guidebook was a most helpful resource.  I highly recommend this book for traveling in the Czech Republic.

Before we jump into what we did, let’s take a look at the city of Prague itself.

Crossing the Charles Bridge from the Little Quarter into the Old Town

Crossing the Charles Bridge from the Little Quarter into the Old Town

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An Afternoon in London – Making the Most of Our Heathrow Layover

It was 8:45 PM, and Rebekah and I were pulling away from the gate at DFW International Airport and heading to London.  Seated next to me, Rebekah was tired from all the preparation.  I was trying not to bounce off the walls with excitement.  Sipping a Newcastle Brown Ale shortly after takeoff, Europe was beckoning me! Our time in London would be short.  With an eight hour Heathrow layover,  we would have three hours in downtown London.  An hour delay at DFW Airport now meant 60 minutes less in London. London Telephone Booth You may ask, “Why does an eight hour layover turn into only three hours in central London?”  In short, plan on 5 hours for Immigration/Border Control (1 hour), transportation to the city center (1 hour), and transportation from the city center back to Heathrow (1 hour), arriving approximately 2 hours prior to your flight’s departure time. We found an excellent article on Trip Advisor breaking down the times and possible sight-seeing options. If you only have a few hours, I strongly recommend focusing on one destination in London, and fully enjoy that one destination.  There is no way you can see everything in London in a few hours; we chose The National Gallery.  The National Gallery is free, located in a great part of town with easy connections and we love art!  Plan your itinerary before leaving home, as you do not want to use your precious time looking up options once you arrive.

Step One:  Immigration/Border Control. We were very fortunate here, giving up just 5 minutes instead of the scheduled hour. We were making up some time lost in the flight delay. If possible, check your bags all the way through to your final destination. Since our bags were checked to Prague, we did not have to spend time picking them up. If we had luggage, I am sure our Immigration time would have been much longer. Besides, you don’t want to carry your bags around London.

London Heathrow Train Map - Courtsey of HeathrowAirport.com

London Heathrow Train Map – Courtsey of HeathrowAirport.com

Rebekah and I on the Piccadilly Line

Rebekah and I on the Piccadilly Line

Step Two:  Transportation to downtown London.  Here, you have two options.  The newer, faster, more expensive option is the Heathrow Express (HEX).  The second option is the traditional Underground Piccadilly Line (Dark Blue Line).  See the map of the Underground above for more information.  We chose the latter based on what we had read in the Trip Advisor article.  Following signs from Immigration, we easily found the Underground station, and purchased RETURN trip tickets from a machine for $15.00 each (£8.90). We used a credit card instead of converting dollars to pounds.

Step Three: Enjoy central London. In 45 minutes, we emerged from the Underground station in the heart of Piccadilly Circus. Piccadilly Circus is the Times Square of London. Broadway show posters plaster buildings. Pizza Hut, KFC, TGI Friday’s, Dunkin’ Donuts and other “wonderful” American contributions to Europe cuisine clamor for business. Hundreds of people mill about. Remember, any time you are around crowds, keep an extra careful eye on your belongings. Bypassing the crowds, we headed to Trafalgar Square on foot. Passing a statue of William Shakespeare in Leicester Square, we asked directions from a friendly police officer.  With a few more turns, we arrived at Trafalgar Square.  Staying focused on the goal at hand, we proceeded directly to The National Gallery.  After all this, we had two and a half hours at the Gallery. Heading back to Heathrow, we exited the museum and were greeted with a light rain.  Big Ben came into view for the first time; it will have to wait for our next London visit.

Trafalgar Square and Big BenStep Four:  Return transportation to Heathrow Airport.  We easily found Piccadilly Circus, and boarded our train back to the airport.  Before getting on the Underground, check to see from which terminal your flight departs.  There are three stops for Heathrow, Terminal 1,2 and 3; Terminal 4; and Terminal 5.  Not all of the trains go to all of the stations.  Our connecting flight to Prague departed from Terminal 3, the first stop.  Again, the return trip took 45 minutes.

Step Five:  Security.  The last step for a successful layover trip to London is clearing security on your way back.  Following the signs from the Underground, we made our way through a very detailed security check point.  Once inside the secure area, we sampled gin and tonics at the Duty Free shops, killing the remainder of our layover before making our way to the gate.  At Heathrow, gates are not assigned until 60 minutes prior to departure, so spend time in the mall-like common area.

The Piccadilly Underground Line

The Piccadilly Underground Line

Well, was all of that hassle worth it?  Definitely!  There are risks involved, but overall, we experienced an extra destination for a small amount of money and no extra time.  If you plan appropriately, and leave enough time for the return trip, 3 hours in London will be much more rewarding than 8 hours in the terminal. If you have any questions, feel free to post in the comments section, and we will do our best to assist you with your upcoming plans.

A Case Study in Redeeming Frequent Flyer Miles

Today, we kick off a series about Rebekah and my most recent international trip.  But before we dive into the stories from the trip, we wanted to take a minute to break down redeeming frequent flyer miles.

Our trip, like any good trip, started with the classic question:  “Where should we go?”  Rebekah and I had accumulated 120,000 miles in our American Airlines frequent flyer accounts, and the miles were burning a hole in our pockets.  Where should we go?

London - Picadilly Circus

London – Picadilly Circus

Redeeming American Airlines’ Frequent Flyer Miles:  Since we were redeeming miles, we figured a good place to start was the American Airlines website.  The Awards Map, a relatively new feature, helps find possible destinations based on the number of frequent flyer miles you wish to redeem.  Using this option, the website shows possible destinations in a selected area (such as Asia Pacific, Europe, Central and South America, etc.) originating from a specific airport, ours being DFW (Dallas-Fort Worth) Airport.  We set the miles we were willing to spend to 30,000 miles per person (one-way).  Based on the dates of travel, we realized we did not have enough miles for Asia or Africa and few options for South America.  Europe seemed to be the best fit.  By eliminating the countries we had already visited in Europe, we only had 45 countries to choose from.  Ha.  Still daunting.

When booking flights using miles, we were shocked to find the additional taxes and fees to be extraordinary.  Some options, such as a flight to Gibraltar, cost 30,000 miles and $760 per person one way.  We quickly ruled out these locations.  In general, we found flights connecting through London Heathrow were more expensive than connecting through other airports.  Also, direct flights were normally the cheapest, since less airports equals less fees.

One benefit of using frequent flyer miles is that you can easily book one-way tickets for half of the miles of a round trip ticket (based on the dates).  We quickly realized there was no benefit for us to book a round trip ticket, and started to view each way as an independent option.  However, the Award Map became even more difficult to use for a one-way return ticket, as you have to select one city in Europe at a time, and select continental US as the return.  Once you do this, you can see if DFW airport is available from the selected European city.  The American Airlines Award Map can be a frustrating tool because of its limitations, but after a lot of work, it helped us narrow down our final destinations.

After much searching, we decided to fly home from Paris, mostly because it was a direct flight back to DFW with ideal departure and landing times and minimal taxes.  After even more struggles, we found a great flight to Prague.  We wanted to explore Eastern Europe if possible, and this was as far east as we could fly on 30,000 miles.

Prague - View of the Charles Bridge

Prague – View of the Charles Bridge

Modifying a Frequent Flyer Ticket Itinerary:  Later, we discovered another benefit of using miles:  no change fees.  After looking at our work schedules again, we were able to extend our trip by two days.  I was not sure what fees would be associated with such a change, but thought the extra time in Europe would be worth a try.  I was pleasantly surprised to find there was no fee.  As long as a flight for the same number of miles is available, the only cost would be the difference in taxes.  In our case, we only changed the return flight, knowing we would not find another flight to Prague.  We easily found a new return flight from Paris, and the taxes for the later flight was the same as the previous flight.  There was no cost to modify our itinerary.

Overall, the representatives at American Airlines were very helpful.  However, if they book the tickets for you directly, there is a fee, so avoid the extra fee by letting them help you make an online booking.  Once you have an online booking, they can assist you with any changes.

When all the planning was complete, we booked a 1 stop flight from DFW to Prague, with a layover in London Heathrow (a rare exception to the high taxes).  The cost for each person was 30,000 miles and $96.80.  The return flight was direct from Charles de Gaulle Airport to DFW for 30,000 miles and $90.90 each.  For those keeping score at home, our “free” tickets cost us a total of 120,000 miles and $375.40.  When it comes to airlines, “free” is not always free.  This definitely made us rethink the value of frequent flyer mile programs.

Our Itinerary:  After a lot of work, Rebekah and I were going to Europe.  We would visit the following locations:

Paris - View of the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triomphe

Paris – View of the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triomphe

In the coming weeks, we will break down each of these four destinations, sharing highlights and the most memorable experiences from each location.  We look forward to sharing our experiences with you!

If you have successfully booked a flight with frequent flyer miles and have any tips, feel free to share in the comments section!

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