Some places turn magical after dark. Český Krumlov is one of these magical places!
After watching the sun set over the town from the Hill of the Cross, Rebekah and I began a leisurely walk back into town. Food was our first priority.
After winding through some back streets of the Old Town, we found the lively Gypsy Bar. Český Krumlov has a large Roma (formerly known as Gypsy) population, and as we entered, we felt welcomed. Seated at the few tables, locals were drinking beer and a couple of tourists ate food silently. I ordered a Pilsner Urquell, the staple Czech beer, while Rebekah enjoyed a glass of red wine for a change. A large plate of ham with sauerkraut and potato pancakes and a second with fried fish and potatoes soon arrived; the food was delicious! While no one played music that night, an entertaining atmosphere still filled the small pub. As we ate, we realized the five men at the front table had their portraits on the walls. They were definitely regulars!
When we emerged from the Gypsy Bar, the town had transformed. During the hour and a half we were inside, the darkness of night dispersed the tourists. With the countless day trippers long gone, and the few overnight guests dining or in their hotel rooms already, we found ourselves almost alone on the lamp-lit streets. The cool night air was perfect for a stroll.
As we walked the cobblestone streets, the illuminated Český Krumlov Castle watched over us from its perch on the cliffs above, just at it protected generations of townspeople before. Its constant presence must have felt calming during times of insecurity.
We made our way to the base of the multi-leveled bridge that connects the Castle Theater with the main Castle complex. This structure had intrigued me from above, but amazed me even more from below. Three layers of stone arches make up the base. Four additional levels allowed commoners, nobles, and servants to cross the ravine without interaction.
Continuing our stroll, Rebekah and I noticed another couple on the next bridge downstream. They were perfectly silhouetted against the flood lights of the Castle beyond. What a romantic place after sundown!
We finished the short walk to our Pension. I was so glad we had decided to stay in the Old Town core. Not being able to repeat this promenade the next night was my only regret; we were only staying in Český Krumlov one night. I could take that same walk every night for the rest of my life!
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